Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Cactus Gardening Survives Even My Withering Touch!

I have always loved plants, but they have never loved me. Some
people have a green thumb, but I am just the opposite. My very
touch can kill most plants. The only ones that I'm good with, in
fact, are ones that require almost no care. Cacti have always
survived my withering touch, and succulence do alright as well.
Nonetheless, I despaired of ever having my own garden until one
of my friends suggested a solution: cactus gardening.

I had never heard of cactus gardening, but my friend assured me
that it was quite common. Although not very many people have a
cactus garden around here, where she comes from they all over
the place. Cactus gardens are extremely popular in the bay area
around San Francisco. Between the sunlight and the moderate
rain, anything will grow there – including cacti. I am pretty
impulsive, and as soon as I decided on cactus gardening, I was
ready to go out and make some purchases. Nonetheless, my friends
stopped me. She told me that I should go to a botanical cactus
garden before I decided what I wanted.

There was more to growing cacti than I had realized before.
There are many different kinds of cactus, and each of them
requires slightly different conditions. When I first heard about
cactus gardening, I thought that I would have to renounce
traditional gardening values. I figured that I would not be able
to see any flowers – just plain, green cacti. To my surprise,
however, many cacti flower regularly. Cactus gardening is
actually every bit as dynamic as any other form of gardening.
The cacti grow, bloom, and hibernate – at least to some degree.
Although the cacti never whither for the season and drop their
spikes, they do have slow periods where they are resting, like
other perennial flowering plants.

I started cactus growing yesterday. My friend told me that,
before I started the cactus garden, I needed to make sure all of
my cacti had matured to some degree in their pots. Now I have
several pots to tend to each day, and so far everything is going
excellently well. Soon I'll have a flawlessly working cactus
garden – the only one on the block. I know that some of the
neighbors will resent it – they resent anything that looks
different on this black. Other ones, however, will probably
think it is pretty cool. Personally, I always love a new look.
Thank God for cactus gardening!


About The Author: Ann Merier a prolific writer has written many
articles about family health and house and garden Topics.
http://4houseandgarden.com
http://meatsmokers.4houseandgarden.com
http://parentingtips.ultimatehealthinfo.com

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3 Things to Consider When Buying Garden Furniture

I made a fatal mistake last week when I told my wife that I had
been researching dining sets for my BBQ website. First of all
she wanted to know exactly what I meant my a dining set and once
I'd explained that I was referring to tables and chairs it was
at that point that the tirade of questions such as "why don't we
get some new furniture" started. For those of you men that have
read "When Mars And Venus Collide" by Dr John Gray you will know
how to interpret this inquisition in a manner that does not
describe it as nagging, but at the end of the day we all know
that it's going to end in a new set of dining furniture and a
dent in the credit card!

So if you end up in the position that I find myself in then you
are going to have to start the research to ensure that you buy
the right set for you and to that end I thought that I would
share some of my findings and save you some bother.

What Do I Need To Think About When Buying New Furniture?

If you are anything like me then the last thing you want to be
doing is spending time looking after the furniture once it is
outside or bringing it inside every time it rains. To be honest
I could not do the latter anyway because I would not have the
space so when it comes down to it, the single most important
factor to consider is the construction material and relate that
to the climate in which you live.

1. Construction Materials

This area can be broken down into three main materials, metal,
wood and wicker. In the metal category there is Aluminum -
Lightweight, doesn't rust and is pretty much indestructible, an
all year round choice provided you don't live in an area
susceptible to wind! Aluminum can also be cleaned by most
household cleaning materials. The other metal option is Wrought
Iron – Again an all year round choice. It's heavier in weight
and also rust proof provided that the powder coating isn't
chipped. Very robust and easily cleaned with soapy water, but do
not use abrasives as this will scratch the powder coating.

When it comes to wood then it's really a choice of the type of
wood. The best regarded are Pine, Cedar or Teak with teak coming
out tops. This is the wood used for decks on yachts so you know
it's going to be pretty hard wearing. The reason that you are
looking at these particular woods is to ensure that your
furniture does not warp as a result of being exposed to the sun
and the rain. Wood is weather proof if treated properly so it
does need regular treatment but maybe only once a year.

Wicker is the final option and this is supremely comfy but it's
not as weather resistant as metal and todays wicker is really a
plastic coated onto an aluminum frame. If it is comfort that you
are after then go this route but you may have to accept renewing
your patio dining set a little more often.

2. Size

You want the size to be in keeping with the amount of space you
have available. If you're blessed with lots of space then maybe
this is not such a big deal but if you are space constricted
then you might want to consider a bistro style patio set.

Consider how you are going to use your furniture. Do you
entertain regularly or is this patio dining set just for the
family barbecue? Most sets come as five pieces (table plus four
chairs) which is OK for the family but if you want the option to
spread out then consider conversion sets because these will give
you greater flexibility.

3. Mosaic

Mosaic table tops really do look great but these surfaces do
need special care and attention. The grout around the tiles can
crack in extremes of temperature so this type of furniture
really does need to be housed indoors if you are expecting
freezing temperatures.

Anyway, I have now take everything into consideration and if
you'll excuse me I will now get on line and keep my wife happy
with a new set of patio furniture and then I will light the BBQ!


About The Author: Sick of seeing cremated burgers at barbecue
parties Paul Yates set about writing recipes, advice and tips to
ensure that the burnt offering becomes a thing of the past. Try
free barbecue grill recipes & meat smoker cooking ideas at
http://www.barbecue-smoker-recipes.com

Please use the HTML version of this article at:
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When Buying a Hammock the Spreader Bar is the Most Important Factor

In the summertime there's nothing like lazing around in the
back garden and having an afternoon nap under the shade of a
tree swinging gently in a hammock. I've tried to make hammocks
in the past and they've never worked very well and all because
of one simple design flaw called the spreader bar.

The spreader bar is something that I've learned about while
doing my research into buying a hammock for my backyard and it
really is the single most important factor to consider when
buying a hammock. The spreader bars are at each end of the
hammock and do exactly what they say which is to spread the bed
out so it does not collapse in on you when you get in it. So
when looking to buy a hammock take special care to check the
quality of this important part.

Other areas to check for good quality are also the straps and
the links chains. Again, make sure that these are robust to
ensure that your safety is not compromised.

So what other marketing gimmicks are there out there to try and
confuse you? There's a lot of differentiation made by the origin
of manufacture some being Mayan, Brazilian or Nicaraguan for
example. There's many more but these seem to prevail. All this
means is that in general the hammock has been hand crafted using
naturally fibres and this has two important impacts:-

1. It's more comfortable than the traditional rope hammock
2. The weave can be a little loose and so care is required when
getting in and out and no sharp objects

Moving back to the traditional rope hammock for comparison,
these can be made out of cotton or polyester. The tighter weave
making the cotton version more robust than the hand crafted
works above and it's still pretty comfortable compared to rope
hammocks made out of polyester. The advantage of the polyester
is that the hammock is significantly more durable so basically
it comes down to a trade off between comfort and durability.

The poolside hammock demonstrates this perfectly. It's
certainly the least comfortable but the needs of a poolside
hammock differ considerably. The essential feature is that the
hammock is quick drying and to a lesser extent it's also
designed to be colorful and both these factors determine the
type of fabric used and this is at the expense of comfort.

So there's no real mystique to buying a hammock, there are some
choices that you need to make depending on the functionality
that you want and you may have to compromise on comfort but
that's about it. Once you've made your choice for fabric then
it's time to look at the quality of the spreader bars and make
sure that these are sufficiently robust to ensure that your
purchase lasts a long time.

It terms of setting it up, a hammock does require two trees in
close proximity otherwise you are probably better acquiring a
hammock stand as well but if this is more equipment than you can
handle then maybe it's time to consider a hanging chair?


About The Author: Sick of seeing cremated burgers at barbecue
parties the Paul Yates set about writing recipes, advice and
tips to ensure that the burnt offering becomes a thing of the
past. Try free barbecue grill recipes & meat smoker cooking
ideas at http://www.barbecue-smoker-recipes.com

Please use the HTML version of this article at:
http://www.isnare.com/html.php?aid=263441

Organic Gardening It's Easier Than You Think

So what is organic gardening? It is gardening using materials
and or matter that comes from compost, manure and other living
matter. It is also a way to garden without using pesticides,
insecticides and other ingredients that are harmful to the
earths environment. It is primarily used for health and
environmental issues.

Organic gardening is an excellent way to grow your trees,
shrubs, flowers, vegetables and plants. Many plants, trees,
shrubs and vegetables benefit greatly with organic materials.
Farmers are now turning to this type of farming due to the bad
effects of poisonous insecticides and pesticides.

Organic composting comes from worms, food waste, grass
clippings and old leaves. If left alone in some type of tumbler
or rotating container it will eventually be consumed by
bacteria. You can then use this type of "Compost" to amend your
soil for your gardening needs. Humus comes from composted
vegetable matter. You can make your own organic compost using a
Compost Tumbler. Visit your local greenhouse or plant nursery
and ask for such a product.

Mulching is another form of organic gardening. Mulch is added
to the top layer of any gardening bed, tree, or plant thus
keeping moisture in and suppressing weeds from growing. This
helps in eliminating harmful herbicides and or insecticides into
the environment. Another added benefit is that mulching will
make the root system grow faster and in turn take in more
natural ingredients from the earths soils.

Organic fertilizers are cottonseed meal, blood meal, Fish
Emulsion, manure and sewage sludge. Many of these type of
fertilizers are high or low on the three types of nutrients
needed for your plants such as nitrogen, phosphorus, or potash.

Be sure to read labels before purchasing. In my opinion fish
emulsion is the best and easiest to apply. You should also be
aware that some organic fertilizers may burn the plants.

Manure the fresher the better over time this type of fertilizer
will weaken, but do not overuse as it can burn plants. Yea I
know it stinks but it works. Farmers now sell organic matter but
you can also purchase organic compost at your local garden
nursery. Just be sure to ask for "Organic compost" or "Organic
Potting Soil".

Cottonseed oil is the safest but is normally used for acid
loving plants.

Blood meal comes from cattle blood after they have been
slaughtered. Be careful not to overuse blood meal as it can also
burn plants. It is high in nitrogen and good for green foliage.

You can also make your own organic compost. Leaves, tree and
shrub cuttings make excellent compost. You will need to purchase
a compost bin or tumbler that can help speed up the process. Be
sure to add a compost maker material this can also be added to
the compost bin for a good organic compost soil.

If you are concerned about the environment then "Organic
Gardening" is the way to go or should I say grow.


About The Author: Paul Guzman is the author of this article.
You can checkout his website about southwestern gardening at:
http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com

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Field Dressing: So You Want to Field Dress a Deer

Field dressing a deer is some kind of job. You've got to have a
very strong constitution for it. It's all blood and guts, after
all. But you've decided to be a deer hunter, so you've got to be
able to do it and do it well. Sure don't want to waste your
catch by spoiling the meat. Prepare yourself. This is one
experience you'll never forget.

You'll need a handful of tools for the field dressing
procedure. At the minimal, you should have the following:

◦ very sharp knife that's comfortable in your hand

◦ disposable latex or vinyl gloves

◦ small saw for cutting through bone

◦ short light rope around 10 feet in length

◦ very clean cloth (several is better)

◦ sealable bag for the heart and liver (if you'd like to
save them)

Now you're ready. Okay. You've gone and caught a deer. It's
time to get busy.

There are two very important rules to keep in mind at all
times. One: Don't rush. You're working with a very sharp knife.
Two: Don't take your eyes off of your work when your hands are
moving. Cutting your hands will slow you way down for they're
the ones doing the work. If you do get a cut, seal it well to
protect yourself from the deer's blood. You don't know what it
may be carrying.

First thing is to ready your work area. Move the deer to a
visible location, especially visible to other hunters in the
area. Place a bright orange cloth (or something as noticeable)
high overhead on a tree branch. Lay your tools out by the
carcass at a safe, reachable distance, preferably in the order
you'll be using them. Remove heavy coats and wrist units. Tie
back whatever may block your view, or fall into your work space.


Be in the right frame of mind. Don't go handling a very sharp
knife if you're tired, upset or distracted. Even if you are just
overly cold or have numbing fingers. Most important, don't use a
dull knife. It'll overwork you, frustrate and upset you. This
promotes accidental injuries or stray cuts that could spoil the
meat. Safety must come first.

The straight cut. Place the carcass with its back on the
ground, head facing up and higher than the rest of the body.
With your gloves on, your first cut will be an incision just
below the breastbone (sternum) with the knife's edge facing up.
Insert your index and middle finger, facing up and through the
cut. Form a "V" and push the hide upwards. Position your
up-facing knife between your fingers. This will help prevent
cutting of internal organs which would result in tainting the
meat. Following the direction of the hair, continue your
incision, with knife between fingers, all the way to the penis
of a buck or to the udder of a doe.

First removal stage. Make a 2 inch deep incision around the
rectum, cutting in a circular motion as you move around it. If
fecal matter is present, tie off the rectum. Pull it into the
body cavity so that it is now only attached to the intestines.

◦ For a buck, remove the testicles. Reach into the body
cavity and remove the
penis at its base.

◦ For a doe, cut all the way around the udder and remove
it.

Second removal stage. While it isn't necessary, it is
recommended that you split the sternum and the pelvic bone in
half with a saw. It will facilitate cooling of the carcass and
make it so much easier to remove the internal organs. Locate the
bladder as a pear-shaped sac in the lower abdomen. Pinch or tie
it off and cut it free, taking special care not to leak any
urine that may be present (use your cloth). Place the bladder a
safe distance away from your work space. If necessary, use the
extra clothes to clean away any leaks coming from the internal
organs before and after they are removed. Keep an eye out for
dirt or debris that might've entered the body cavity and remove
it.

Roll the carcass to one side. Most of the internal organs will
come loose at this point. Cut away all connective tissue still
holding any organs and intestines in place. If necessary, roll
the carcass to the opposite side and cut what tissue still
clings. Roll it back over. Be sure that the body has drained of
all fluids before proceeding.

Remove the diaphragm to have access to the chest cavity. This
is a strong membranous muscle that separates the chest cavity,
with heart and lungs, from the abdominal cavity. Reach up as far
as you can to remove as much of the windpipe as you're able. Now
remove the remaining organs, heart, lungs and liver. Use the
sealable bag to save the heart and liver, if you like. And
you're done.

Please, properly dispose of all organs that were removed,
including any and all body parts. Use the rope to drag the deer
out of the field. This is most popularly done by the feet and
not the head.

There you have it. A fast and straight forward procedure for
properly field dressing a deer. Be careful out there. Be safe.
And good luck!

July 2008


About The Author: Len Q. is a master blade sharpener. If you
would like to learn more about ª Knife Sharpening: How to
Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them ª Sharpening Other Edges
(i.e. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes) Find
it Here http://www.makeknivessharp.com/

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Planting and Growing an Organic Vegetable Garden

Interested in growing organic? For many, it's the only way to
grow.

When starting an organic vegetable garden you must start from
the ground up. Compost is the key to a lush, bountiful organic
garden. If you don't already have your own compost, check with
your local municipality. Most give away leaf compost for free.
Some even deliver by the truckload to your home!

Leaf compost is very rich in organic matter; however, it still
needs a few amendments. Lime added to your compost will balance
the Ph and Gypsum added (about 5lbs. per 100 sq. ft.) will keep
the soil nice and loose, it also adds trace minerals such as
calcium which is great for the soil. Adding these will also help
plants intake the nutrients they need to thrive. Work this into
the top 4"-6" of soil.

Another important key to growing organic veggies is sunlight.
Take some time to watch the sun as it moves across your property
throughout the day. Start your garden where it will get the
maximum amount of sun and plant your rows from NE to SW. It is
also important to water your garden in the early morning between
the hours of 6 and 10 am. The will allow for good water
absorption and any water left on the leaves will evaporate
before the heat of mid-day. Watering in the middle of the day is
not recommended because the water will evaporate before it has a
chance to really soak in (or you will have to water longer to
get the same effect). The leaves of the plants may also burn as
the water on the leaves heats up. Never, ever water your garden
in the evening unless you want a tough battle with the evil
fungus! Let me explain. When you water in the evening it is
cooler and dark. The ground will absorb the water well, however,
the round will only suck up so much, and then the garden is left
with water on the leaves and puddles (even small ones) around
the stems. There is no sun to gently evaporate the excess. Water
and air can carry fungus spores naturally. The water laying on
the leaves and around the stems acts as a fertilizer to the evil
fungus and it grows literally overnight. Before you know it you
have black spots on your tomato and pepper plant and curling
leaves on your cucumbers!

Ok, once you have chosen your location, prepared the soil, and
have placed your plants in rows, use your recycled newspaper as
a weed preventer between the rows. Once the newspaper is wet, no
weed can penetrate it.
It's not very pretty, do like I do and give it a covering of
mulch. Newspaper and mulch also serve a dual purpose…they help
retain moisture around the plants. Just try to keep them away
from the stems of your plants.

Pretty simple so far, huh? There is a great misnomer about the
word ORGANIC. Many people think that organic means work. It's
just the opposite. Working with nature, and using simple
principles is always easier and more successful than working
against nature with harmful chemical based fertilizers and
control products.

Beneficial insects in your garden are a must. Lady bugs and
Preying Mantis will eat many unwanted insects. Bats are also
great insect eaters. And no, they will not get stuck in your
hair! Install a bat box up in a tree and you will have less
garden pests and mosquitoes in your yard. Bats are nocturnal so
they won't bother you at all. They are actually great fun to
watch at dusk, dancing in the moonlight.

If you do find yourself with a garden invasion of nasty little
critters, there are a few easy tricks. If you only see a few
insects, pick them off, put in a refuse bag and throw in the
trash. If you have more than a few, a solution of soapy water
generally will do the trick. Using recycled bath or dishwater
works great. It also saves precious water. If your garden is too
large to bucket the water from your sink or tub, pour some
liquid dish soap in a hose end sprayer and spray the garden. A
good soak of the plants is what you want. You can do this weekly
all the way until harvest.

As for fertilizing your veggies, there is nothing better than
Merrill's! When I find a product that works this well, I have to
spread the word. Merrill's Compost Fertilizer or Compost Tea (a
water soluble fertilizer) is an All Natural Certified Organic
Fertilizer. Your plants will love it! They will grow bigger, and
yield more veggies than any other fertilizer I've ever used.

Ok, now let me tell you how to rid your garden of the EVIL
FUNGUS. If you come across a plant (particularly tomatoes) that
is curling or wilting with no other apparent signs of disease,
(and it's been getting adequate water) pull it our and dispose
of it immediately. Throw it in the garbage… do not put it in
your compost bin!

Do not replant in that spot again this season? It could have
Fusarium Wilt or some other disease that attacks the root system
of the plant and can travel quickly from plant to plant. If you
have Black Spot or Powdery Mildew, make sure you are only
watering in the morning, and you can get an organic fungus
control at greennationgardens.com or your local garden center.

Now that the gardening season is over, when breaking down your
garden… COMPOST IT! Any newspaper and mulch can be placed in
your compost to break down naturally to be added back into your
garden next year. Plant stems unfortunately have to go into the
garbage. They are fibrous and difficult to break down. You do
not want any disease spores wintering over in your compost bin.
Make sure to test the Ph and amend your soil yearly to replace
the nutrients and trace minerals your veggies took from the
soil. After all, the organic vegetables you'll be growing the
following growing season will be looking for those very same
nutrients. They'll thank you for it with a bountiful array of
fresh organic produce, and your family will thank you for all
the wonderful goodness you have provided them with no chemicals,
and that is a wonderful thing!

HAPPY "ORGANIC" GARDENING!


About The Author: This article may be reproduced and/or
distributed. Written by Vera Pappas, Owner of Green Nation
Gardens, suppliers of unique and eco-friendly garden supplies.
Visit http://www.greennationgardens.com, Today!

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Saturday, July 25, 2009

Tree Crops Vs Annual Crops

Agriculturists are often asked if tree crops such as pine,
fruit trees, rubber and oil palm or annual crops such as wheat,
maize, rice or soya bean are friendlier for the environment.
This article will explore the merits and demerits of planting
tree crops or annual crops vis a vis its environmental impact.

One of the major contributors to environmental damage during
the planting of annual crops is the heavy usage of machineries
in all aspects of cultivation of the crops. There is
significant use of mechanisation from seed planting to the
harvesting and threshing of the crop. Early in the 19th century,
a farmer could produce food for 2.5 people and by 1999 due to
advances in agricultural technology, a single farmer could feed
over 130 people. Modern harvesters such as combined harvesters
and planters are extensively used in the planting of various
crops in most parts of the world. While mechanisation increases
productivity and lowers the cost of production, it also
contributes towards environmental destruction. Most of these
machineries are bulky and as they move around the fields, they
bring destruction to the top soil causing destruction to the
microorganisms found in the soil.

Soil is a favourable habitat for microorganisms and is
inhabited by a wide range of microorganisms including bacteria,
fungi, algae, viruses and protozoa. Microorganisms are found in
large numbers in soil; usually between one and ten million
microorganisms are present in each gram of soil and with
bacteria and fungi being the most prevalent. Apart from that,
soil organisms are very important as almost every chemical
action and reaction that takes place in soil involves active
contributions from soil microorganisms.

They play an active role in enhancing soil fertility by
assisting with the recycling of nutrients such as carbon and
nitrogen which is essential for plant growth. Microorganisms
also help with the decomposition of organic matter in soil into
nutrients. An example would be nitrogen fixing bacteria
transforming nitrogen gas present in the soil into soluble
nitrate compounds which enrich the soil and is absorbed by the
plant. Other soil microorganisms produce hormones that can
improve plant health and contribute towards higher yield.
Microorganisms are influenced by the nature, properties and
arrangement of soil particles. They also modify soil particles
and their arrangements. Microbial life in soil is also
indirectly influenced by surface interactions. Some
microorganisms also burrow into and churn up the soil which
improves soil structure and aggregation. Microorganisms have
the ability to protect plants from antagonistic pathogens as
some can dissolve minerals and provide nutrients in dissolved
mineral form to plants. Apart from microorganisms, there are
also earthworms that take in dead organic matters from soil,
ingest it, excrete the nutrient rich casts in the soil and help
to improve aeration, water infiltration, drainage and enhance
nutrient availability and cycling. These microorganisms and
earthworms which enrich the soil are usually killed by the use
of machineries and continued use of machineries in the field do
not enable these microorganisms to be re-established.

Another factor to be considered for annual crops is the current
practice of double or even triple cropping per year which causes
continuous damage to the top soil without providing opportunity
for the soil to rejuvenate. Over-tilling and over-ploughing soil
destroys natural soil structure with decreased soil pore size,
breakdowns in soil aggregates and decreased pore space which
curbs good air and water flow. Continuous use of heavy
machinery causes soil compaction which makes it difficult for
microorganisms, earthworms and small insects to breed. This also
results in poor internal drainage, creates possible run off,
inhibits root development and breeds unhealthy plants. Soil
compaction also causes water that enters the surface of the soil
to be perched on the sub surface of the soil, saturating and
ponding the surface of the soil while by right it should have
permeated into the soil. Thus soil compaction has a destructive
effect on the soil and the environment.

Smoke from these machineries also pollutes the air which is not
only detrimental to health but causes chemical pollution of the
crops in the form of acid rain. Apart from that, pollution
caused by these machineries causes depletion of the ozone layer.
In some underdeveloped countries, the stalks of annual crops are
burnt after the crop has been harvested, which releases carbon
dioxide into the atmosphere. The natural biodiversity of
plants, animals and microbes function in many ways to enhance
the quality of life enjoyed by the human beings. But in the
process of providing food for the human beings, biodiversity has
taken a back seat. In the case of rice, vast areas of wetlands
have been drained to plant rice which upsets the pre-existing
biodiversity. The same goes to vast tracts of land in North and
South America where prairies have gradually been converted into
field growing crops such as wheat and maize. The conversion of
these areas have totally eradicated some indigenous plants and
animals. The wild population of the American bisons that
inhabited the prairies were practically eradicated in the
process of establishing large farms to grow wheat to feed the
American population. Historically they ranged across half of
North America and numbered in the millions before being reduced
to a countable number within a period of two centuries. Their
habitat which were the grassland and meadows that were the
former prairies have made them an endangered breed of animals.
Establishing such farms did not just upset the ecosystems that
had been in place there but also caused a gradual extinction of
a breed of animal that is part of the American history.

How land is used to produce food can have an enormous effect on
the environment and its sustainability. Environmental groups in
the United States have mounted attacks on fast food chains such
as Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC) and Pizza Hut because of the
adverse effects these organisations have created in the food
production chain in the country. Intensive breeding of livestock
and poultry for the restaurants have resulted in deforestation
in countries such as Brazil, land degradation, and the
contamination of water and other natural resources. For every
pound of red meat, poultry, eggs and milk produced, farms fields
in these countries lose about five pounds of top soil of their
field. The water used for meat breeding comes to about 190
gallons per animal per day or ten times of that used by an
average family. Overall, animal farms use about 40% of the
world's total production of grain and nearly 50% of the grain
production in United States goes towards feeding livestock, not
hungry mouths elsewhere in the world. (Source: South End Press,
2000). The demand for these crops are so great that genetically
modified (GM) food crops are planted in some developed countries
to meet the demand for them. While the peril of genetically
modified crops are yet to be seen in the long term, there is
already strong resistance from some Western NGOs and protests
have been mounted against planting and exporting of GM crops.
New concepts such as industrial agriculture have also been
mooted so that production of food crops can be enhanced to meet
demand for such food products. Planting of food crops is no
longer considered essential farming but is increasingly viewed
as production of a commodity to meet the demands of customers
such KFC and Pizza Hut.

Much of the best agricultural land in the world is used to
plant non food crops such as cotton, tobacco, sugar cane, cocoa
and food flavour cum oil extractant crops such as soya bean.
Soya bean has been found to be the cause of extensive clearing
of forest land in South America. Used as a fodder and oil
extractant, it requires more than four hectares to produce the
same amount of oil extracted from every hectare of oil palm
land. In other words for every one hectare of oil palm land you
need more than four hectares of land to produce a similar amount
of oil from soya bean. So extensive is the use of land and
machinery in cultivating this crop in Brazil that vast areas of
land in the Matto Grasso and Para districts has been cleared to
plant this crop. What was once a thriving ecosystem supporting
more than 300 tree species per hectare has been destroyed with
the conversion into soya bean farms. The whole process of the
cultivation of the soya bean crop from planting to harvesting is
fully mechanised and the use of sophisticated machineries causes
severe damage to the top soil and the environment. In the past
three years nearly 70,000 hectares of primary rainforest has
been destroyed to plant the crop. Big earth movers are sent into
the jungle to bulldoze the forest trees and then the logs are
dumped into pits and burnt. The trunks take weeks to burn and
the smoke smoulder for months causing environmental pollution.
Brazil produced more than 50 millions of soya in an area of
about 23 million hectares and has overtaken the US as the
leading producer of soya bean. (Source: Common Dreams. Org.
July, 2006)

On the other hand, tree crops cause minimum damage to the
environment through the minimal use of machines. Limited usage
of mechanical equipments is one of the reasons for tree crops
means less pollution to the environment. The most common piece
of machinery used is the farm tractor, utilised mainly for the
transportation of planting materials and harvested crops. Thus,
there is no continuous use of machinery such as those used in
annual crops which is heavily utilised through the entire
cultivation process.

Another key factor to note is that tree crops have a lifespan
ranging from 15 to 25 years thus causing minimum disruption to
the soil surface. Once planting has been carried out, the soil
is not tilled again until the next planting. In the case of oil
palm, replanting is carried out only every 25 years giving the
soil ample time to rejuvenate. Within this period,
microorganisms that enrich the soil are able to reestablished.
Apart from that, minimum disruption to the soil means other
organisms such as earthworms and insects are allowed to breed
and there is a continuous process of soil enrichment which does
not occur with annual crops.

With environmental friendly approaches such as `zero burning',
oil palms are felled, mechanically shredded and left to
decompose in the soil. By avoiding open burning, there is little
disruption to the top soil and microorganisms thus helping to
maintain the soil fertility. Oil palms and other tree crops also
provide ample space for flora and fauna to flourish during the
establishment and subsequent stages of growth of the trees.
Compared to other oil producing crops, a hectare of oil palm
produces 10 times more oil than other crops and an average yield
of between 4- 5 tonnes of crude palm oil per hectare makes oil
palms the most efficient oil bearing crop and the most efficient
crop in the world.

In conclusion, tree crops such as oil palm plantations are
'perrenial', providing more biodiversity and are more
environmentally friendly when compared to annual crops such as
soya bean. Thus, agriculturists and environmentalists normally
show a predilection for and embrace tree crops and plant these
whenever possible.


* This article was originally posted at Deforestation Watch
[http://deforestationwatch.org]. For changes and updates of this
article please visit
http://deforestationwatch.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=231&Itemid=43


About The Author: Simon Chambers, please visit Deforestation
Watch at http://deforestationwatch.org/. Deforestation Watch was
established to drive sustainability mainstream. Striving to be a
center of green news, solutions and all things green, we also
help corporations looking for green guidance.

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